im having a problem regarding my 2door no-frost fridge,first i noticed its stop cooling,then i try to open the back panel of the freezer then i saw some ice formation all around the condenser its too much,then i asked my technician he told me to changed the thermostat fuse then i did,what happen two consecutive days its working but after that the same problem again,what i did i try to defrost the fridge becouse there is full of ice formation again in the condenser,then i rotate clockwise the timer then its works again,after that only 2 days its working then same problem again its stop cooling.everytime i try to defrost its working,i was thinking may the main problem is the defrost heater,it could be? what about the defrost timer do i have to change also? how will i find the defrost heater? where is it located?No-frost fridge problem NATIONAL fridge,,its stop cooling and over freeezing of backside panel condenser?
First, that is the evaporator, not condenser.
You probably didn't defrost it well or it would work longer before building up ice again. You might have to cycle the defrost timer several times (you don;t have to do it all at once) to get it to clear. Each time it defrosts it can be up to 33 minutes before it restarts. It should come back on by itself when the defrost times out. If it doesn't the timer is bad.
If it defrosts by turning the timer to the defrost cycle then the timer is bad, every thing else is working. Replace the timer.
If turning the timer to defrost does NOT turn on the heater then the heater or defrost terminator (bimetal thermostat on the coils) is bad and you need to change the one that is open.
Good LuckNo-frost fridge problem NATIONAL fridge,,its stop cooling and over freeezing of backside panel condenser?
Usually it's located inside the top part of the fridge either on the side or at the back, just turn it to off , if you cannot find it just unplug he fridge from the wall ,and the ice buildup ice will melt , it might take overnight to get it all gone , make sure that the line is clear and not bent, keep the fridge away from the wall air needs to circulate, never push the fridge to the wall , keep the door closed to keep whatever is in there cool or take the meat over to a friends or a relative's place to keep in their freezer for a day or two.No-frost fridge problem NATIONAL fridge,,its stop cooling and over freeezing of backside panel condenser?
check the coils on the bottom of the frig and mack Sheree thy are not clogged up. Thy should be clean at least once a year.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Hi can anyone tell me how to get to the heater matrix on a peugeot 306 thanks and how to remove it ?
im driving my father-in-laws Peugeot 306 no heat in the car ive changed the thermostat in the engine still no heat so i suppose its the heater matrix so how hard is it to get to and to get out of the dash board and to change would anyone know please help if any ones got a link to a Peugeot on line workshop manuel please could i have it thanks to anyone who might be able to help me in advanceHi can anyone tell me how to get to the heater matrix on a peugeot 306 thanks and how to remove it ?
You can get a Haynes manual for only a few squid on eBay - eg. links below, and many more. Would definitely recommend it as the heater matrix/motor unit is typically pretty well buried under the dash and complex to get out.
You can get a Haynes manual for only a few squid on eBay - eg. links below, and many more. Would definitely recommend it as the heater matrix/motor unit is typically pretty well buried under the dash and complex to get out.
Lexus say it doesn't happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn't either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
Any time I drive my car over 10 miles it cooks up. There was no %26quot;event%26quot; - no bang, nothing, it just started to run hot. Lexus changed the thermostat for 拢128! and it was okay on short runs. I drove 350 miles up the M1, fine. Coming back, just straight up into red. Now Lexus said it didn't happen when they had the car but wanted 拢1100 to do the cylinder head gasket in case; as no oil or water was cross-contaminating, I thought I'd try elsewhere. Bosch centre couldn't get it to overheat either, but said the fluid coupling fan was not running. Next time I took it 15miles it cooked up. I drove it back at the top of the red and showed them. Having been switched off for a few mins before restarting, the fan was running, temperature plummeting. As they were at a loss, nothing has happened since. The car is in limbo - can't fix it, can't use it, can't sell it (except at huge loss). Does anyone Know how to fix this or where to start?Lexus say it doesn%26039;t happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn%26039;t either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
are you saying that the fan doesn't work occassionally?
have you checked the power supply to the coupling fan, and earth to see if cables are broken- transit might loosen a connection.... sorry can't be more specific... lexus not my model.
good luck...Lexus say it doesn%26039;t happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn%26039;t either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
Sounds like a faulty temperature sensor, easy to change.Lexus say it doesn%26039;t happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn%26039;t either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
WOW... Bosch really is bad at electronics. So far I've heard nothing, but bad things... I had my VW Passat's ABS Bosch made module malfunction. And so did many others, it's a actually a factory error, they made a whole line of cars like that! With faulty electrical boards! I would check up on this and see if you can find others like you, or in similar position. Try websites that are run by Lexus enthusiasts, forum boards, etc. i.e. like this VW one, vwvortex.com, so you have an idea. I found out what was wrong with my module on this kind of forums, then also found out how to fix it myself for an extremely low price! If this is an often occurring problem there will be third party companies that can help you out! Look into it. It'll end up being much cheaper than dealing with the stealer-ships, and you'll probably still get at least a 3 to 5 yr. warranty, depending who you deal with.Lexus say it doesn%26039;t happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn%26039;t either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
Scrap it.small white pimple database
are you saying that the fan doesn't work occassionally?
have you checked the power supply to the coupling fan, and earth to see if cables are broken- transit might loosen a connection.... sorry can't be more specific... lexus not my model.
good luck...Lexus say it doesn%26039;t happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn%26039;t either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
Sounds like a faulty temperature sensor, easy to change.Lexus say it doesn%26039;t happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn%26039;t either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
WOW... Bosch really is bad at electronics. So far I've heard nothing, but bad things... I had my VW Passat's ABS Bosch made module malfunction. And so did many others, it's a actually a factory error, they made a whole line of cars like that! With faulty electrical boards! I would check up on this and see if you can find others like you, or in similar position. Try websites that are run by Lexus enthusiasts, forum boards, etc. i.e. like this VW one, vwvortex.com, so you have an idea. I found out what was wrong with my module on this kind of forums, then also found out how to fix it myself for an extremely low price! If this is an often occurring problem there will be third party companies that can help you out! Look into it. It'll end up being much cheaper than dealing with the stealer-ships, and you'll probably still get at least a 3 to 5 yr. warranty, depending who you deal with.Lexus say it doesn%26039;t happen but want 拢1100 to look; Bosch say it doesn%26039;t either-overheating GS300. Any ideas?
Scrap it.
Are there any heating/furnace pros here?
I have a 5 yr. old mobile home with a Nordyne/Intertherm CH/CA system. The heater worked fine last winter %26amp; the AC was great this summer. When I lit the pilot last month, the heater did not work right. When it comes on it only runs for about 11/2 min. max. It blows air well, but it isn't very warm, almost like it's blowing the heat from the pilot only. I changed the thermostat %26amp; thermocouple but it made no difference. Also, the pilot flame isn't small like it should be, it's pretty big %26amp; doesn't change whether the furnace is running or not. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem might be and how much to fix? I should add that although it worked fine last year, when it would shut off I could hear a noise like a brushing sound coming from the furnace %26amp; then a thud at the end. It doesn't make these noises now.Are there any heating/furnace pros here?
you need a heating %26amp; air Repairman. A problem like this is out of the scope of answers, that you will be able to get here.Are there any heating/furnace pros here?
Wrong place to ask honey. Try www.fixya.comAre there any heating/furnace pros here?
With all probability, it simply needs an annual cleaning. It could be that the jet is clogged. (That's the thing inside that shoots the flame)Are there any heating/furnace pros here?
The bigger pilot flame is from someone messing around with the gas valve. They didn't understand what screws they were turning and increased the pressure.
Is the gas valve sitting on Pilot or open/on/etc. You'd be shocked how often that's the problem.
When you changed the thermostat, did you set the anticipator correctly?
It sounds like you're getting the call for heat and the unit is running it's prepurge, finding a problem and turning itself off. It could be a vacuum hose is disconnected, a defect in the gas valve, cracked heat exchanger, obstruction in the exhaust vent, etc.
Take the covers off the furnace and tape down the door safety switch (Tape don't hold, because I've been shocked by faulty door switches in the past). Try turning the furnace on and watching what happens. See if the burners actually light. If they do light, describe what the flames do (Lift off the burners, flail about in an unstable manner, roll off the burners, burn back in to the burners, etc.).
The thud you would hear was the heat exchanger cooling down. A giant plate of metal is heated and air is moved past it. That's how the furnace works.
If it's a cracked heat exchanger, you're looking at a new furnace (you can replace the heat exchanger but the furnace is the heat exchanger. You can repair the heat exchanger, but it's a temp. fix and you're playing dice with your life)
If it's a gas valve problem, Maybe 250 to 300 total. It'll be 15 min to a half hour to change out, run the junk and what not.
It's hard to know what the problem is without watching it in action. You could run the cycle and find the owners manual. When you take the door covers off, there'll be a flashing green or red (or both) light(s). You can use that and the owners manual to find the error code (sometimes it's on the back of the door panel).
you need a heating %26amp; air Repairman. A problem like this is out of the scope of answers, that you will be able to get here.Are there any heating/furnace pros here?
Wrong place to ask honey. Try www.fixya.comAre there any heating/furnace pros here?
With all probability, it simply needs an annual cleaning. It could be that the jet is clogged. (That's the thing inside that shoots the flame)Are there any heating/furnace pros here?
The bigger pilot flame is from someone messing around with the gas valve. They didn't understand what screws they were turning and increased the pressure.
Is the gas valve sitting on Pilot or open/on/etc. You'd be shocked how often that's the problem.
When you changed the thermostat, did you set the anticipator correctly?
It sounds like you're getting the call for heat and the unit is running it's prepurge, finding a problem and turning itself off. It could be a vacuum hose is disconnected, a defect in the gas valve, cracked heat exchanger, obstruction in the exhaust vent, etc.
Take the covers off the furnace and tape down the door safety switch (Tape don't hold, because I've been shocked by faulty door switches in the past). Try turning the furnace on and watching what happens. See if the burners actually light. If they do light, describe what the flames do (Lift off the burners, flail about in an unstable manner, roll off the burners, burn back in to the burners, etc.).
The thud you would hear was the heat exchanger cooling down. A giant plate of metal is heated and air is moved past it. That's how the furnace works.
If it's a cracked heat exchanger, you're looking at a new furnace (you can replace the heat exchanger but the furnace is the heat exchanger. You can repair the heat exchanger, but it's a temp. fix and you're playing dice with your life)
If it's a gas valve problem, Maybe 250 to 300 total. It'll be 15 min to a half hour to change out, run the junk and what not.
It's hard to know what the problem is without watching it in action. You could run the cycle and find the owners manual. When you take the door covers off, there'll be a flashing green or red (or both) light(s). You can use that and the owners manual to find the error code (sometimes it's on the back of the door panel).
Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
I have a 99 Chevy Tracker. On the way to work the other morning, the temperature gauge stopped working..it wouldn't show the motor heating up. The heater blew out ice cold air no matter how long I drove it. Eventually it overheated and I immediately pulled over. I changed the thermostat and babied it back home (had no choice but to get it home), but it still didn't change the problem. After tearing down the motor a bit, I noticed I have milky coolant/oil throughout the entire motor. The radiator is all milk too. Obviously the oil/antifreeze is mixing, and I'm hoping it is just a blown head gasket and not cracked head/block. My question is though, there is oil/antifreeze in the intake, the throttle body, and I'm sure in the intake manifold itself as well. How would this happen, and whats the best way to clean that out?Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
Newer vehicles than '95 don't put up with that kind of abuse without cracking their heads. Basically, the head gasket went bad first, and leaked exhaust gasses into the cooling system. But driving it home probably pushed it over the edge. Remove the dirty removable parts and blast them at a car wash if you don't have a pressure washer or parts washer. You will have to flush out the block with motor flush.
Note: if equipped with dexacool......then the motor is probably toast. dexacool is an organic acid and turns into a nasty semi-solid when it hits the oil and cloggs the oil pump and passages. You can clean it if you like, but it will rattle from the tore up bearings in it.Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
Clean it up when you have it apart to see if(hopefully) the head gasket is your problem.
It got there because the combustion or PSI in the cylinders is usually 150psi plus. so greater pressure pushes it any where it can
Have a real close look at your cylinder wall, pistons and rings while you have the head off.
Rotate the engine by hand and check the entire cylinder wall (full stroke) of each cylinder for scoring
If scored...sorry to say, but I think you know
Good luckMotor is a complete mess -- ideas?
You are probably right about a blown head gasket. The pressure from the cylinders could be forcing the fluid out into the intake manifold.Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
You would really have to tear it completely down to assess the damage. It sounds like a catastrophic engine failure though. If I were in your shoes, I would try to get a complete engine from a reputable salvage yard. If you do that, make sure you completely flush the radiator before installing another engine. Otherwise, any contaminants from your old engine could ruin your new one. Good Luck!!
ps. cool name!Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
Another tricky question to answer from the armchair. The head bolts directly to the intake manifold (meaning you are going to have to remove the intake manifold to pull the head) %26amp; although it has never happened to me in a hundred thousand miles of abusing automobiles, I suppose it is possible that you could blow a yhead gasket bad enough to that the coolant in the cylinderjakets got mixed with the oil in the galleys %26amp; got sprayed all into everything.
I can imagine it was quite a mess! Must have been running like crap, huh? Does that tracker have aluminum heads %26amp;/or block -- and -- just how hot did it get %26amp; for how long? Aluminum heads don't much like to get way overheated; it's possible you warped the head?
Well, to simply change the gasket, the head will have to come off, meaning that basically everything on top of the engine will have to come off (yuk!), so there is how you will have access to cleaning that gunk out (plenty of good carcinogenic degreasers available in spray cans at any parts store, again, I know this from experience). Once the head is pulled out, you can look right down into the cylinders, %26amp; wipe them clean (definitely important, coolant does not compress, so on the compression stroke you could bend a rod). At that point, %26amp; I'm simply throwing haphazard advice now, you can take the head to a machine shop %26amp; have it checked for warpage, %26amp; if you can get some dye penatrant, I suppose you could check your block for cracks.
Sorry to hear about that mess, %26amp; sorry for not being able to offer much. Good luck.Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
If you don't have white exhaust it is a cracked block. I wouldn't bother cleaning it because you're going to need a new (used) short block. To clean the parts after replacement just do a long flush...it still won't clean out the oil but you'll get enough to not hinder operation.
Newer vehicles than '95 don't put up with that kind of abuse without cracking their heads. Basically, the head gasket went bad first, and leaked exhaust gasses into the cooling system. But driving it home probably pushed it over the edge. Remove the dirty removable parts and blast them at a car wash if you don't have a pressure washer or parts washer. You will have to flush out the block with motor flush.
Note: if equipped with dexacool......then the motor is probably toast. dexacool is an organic acid and turns into a nasty semi-solid when it hits the oil and cloggs the oil pump and passages. You can clean it if you like, but it will rattle from the tore up bearings in it.Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
Clean it up when you have it apart to see if(hopefully) the head gasket is your problem.
It got there because the combustion or PSI in the cylinders is usually 150psi plus. so greater pressure pushes it any where it can
Have a real close look at your cylinder wall, pistons and rings while you have the head off.
Rotate the engine by hand and check the entire cylinder wall (full stroke) of each cylinder for scoring
If scored...sorry to say, but I think you know
Good luckMotor is a complete mess -- ideas?
You are probably right about a blown head gasket. The pressure from the cylinders could be forcing the fluid out into the intake manifold.Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
You would really have to tear it completely down to assess the damage. It sounds like a catastrophic engine failure though. If I were in your shoes, I would try to get a complete engine from a reputable salvage yard. If you do that, make sure you completely flush the radiator before installing another engine. Otherwise, any contaminants from your old engine could ruin your new one. Good Luck!!
ps. cool name!Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
Another tricky question to answer from the armchair. The head bolts directly to the intake manifold (meaning you are going to have to remove the intake manifold to pull the head) %26amp; although it has never happened to me in a hundred thousand miles of abusing automobiles, I suppose it is possible that you could blow a yhead gasket bad enough to that the coolant in the cylinderjakets got mixed with the oil in the galleys %26amp; got sprayed all into everything.
I can imagine it was quite a mess! Must have been running like crap, huh? Does that tracker have aluminum heads %26amp;/or block -- and -- just how hot did it get %26amp; for how long? Aluminum heads don't much like to get way overheated; it's possible you warped the head?
Well, to simply change the gasket, the head will have to come off, meaning that basically everything on top of the engine will have to come off (yuk!), so there is how you will have access to cleaning that gunk out (plenty of good carcinogenic degreasers available in spray cans at any parts store, again, I know this from experience). Once the head is pulled out, you can look right down into the cylinders, %26amp; wipe them clean (definitely important, coolant does not compress, so on the compression stroke you could bend a rod). At that point, %26amp; I'm simply throwing haphazard advice now, you can take the head to a machine shop %26amp; have it checked for warpage, %26amp; if you can get some dye penatrant, I suppose you could check your block for cracks.
Sorry to hear about that mess, %26amp; sorry for not being able to offer much. Good luck.Motor is a complete mess -- ideas?
If you don't have white exhaust it is a cracked block. I wouldn't bother cleaning it because you're going to need a new (used) short block. To clean the parts after replacement just do a long flush...it still won't clean out the oil but you'll get enough to not hinder operation.
How to pressurize your radiator?
73 el camino have changed the thermostat and water pump and all radiator hoses and alternator belt, what else can it be?How to pressurize your radiator?
what about replacing the radiator [i assUme its overheating}? could b 30 yrs old and is it tuned up? bad plug or wire can cause a hot running engine...pressure the rad? they sell the tool to pressure test rads at any auto parts storeHow to pressurize your radiator?
you did not state the problemHow to pressurize your radiator?
most radiator shops will do this for free. If you want to do it yourself you'll have to buy a kit or see if you can rent one at a parts house. But how it works is you take your cap off and put the right size cap on hook a hose to it and pump up to the psi on the radiator cap you take off and look for leaksHow to pressurize your radiator?
Radiator scaled up. Some raditor shops can descale them , but depending on what type it is. Possibly the water jackets in the cylinder head can also be scaled up.How to pressurize your radiator?
the heat from your engine will pressurize it. Is their a leak somewhere? You shouldn't need to pressurize it by yourself.How to pressurize your radiator?
what degree thermostat did you put in? that make it go hot then cool
what about replacing the radiator [i assUme its overheating}? could b 30 yrs old and is it tuned up? bad plug or wire can cause a hot running engine...pressure the rad? they sell the tool to pressure test rads at any auto parts storeHow to pressurize your radiator?
you did not state the problemHow to pressurize your radiator?
most radiator shops will do this for free. If you want to do it yourself you'll have to buy a kit or see if you can rent one at a parts house. But how it works is you take your cap off and put the right size cap on hook a hose to it and pump up to the psi on the radiator cap you take off and look for leaksHow to pressurize your radiator?
Radiator scaled up. Some raditor shops can descale them , but depending on what type it is. Possibly the water jackets in the cylinder head can also be scaled up.How to pressurize your radiator?
the heat from your engine will pressurize it. Is their a leak somewhere? You shouldn't need to pressurize it by yourself.How to pressurize your radiator?
what degree thermostat did you put in? that make it go hot then cool
Dodge Ram heater problems?
I have a 1998 dodge ram 5.2l and i have a few problems with my heater. First of all on the setting with the heater blowing right at you, only the vents on the driver side blow air and the passenger vents will not. Then i am hearing a loud noise under the passenger dashboard which im pretty sure is the fan/motor, it just sounds like a really loud fan (louder than normal). This noise comes and goes and it gets louder the higher the fan is blowing. Another problem i am having is when my engine is at a high RPM the fan will switch from the vents in your face to the defrost vents. I am pretty sure i have to change a check valve somewhere but i do not know which one or where. Another problem is that my heater does not really blow hot air just warm, i believe this is because my engine heat is always a little low, it will never even reach half it is usually around 1/3 even once fully warmed up. I believe changing my thermostat will fix this but im not sure. My last problem is that when my fan is blowing on the defrost setting there is sometimes a rotten smell.
If you know how to fix any of these problem that would be greatly appreciatedDodge Ram heater problems?
you need to pull the heater box out and clean it and check the vent doors real good on it, chances are one isn't opening up all the way and the thermostat may be causing some of the problems with it also, and the low heat problem can also be caused by a clogged heater core,the noise could be the heater motor going bad also,if i had that one i would pull th box out and go through it real good and make sure everything was working right before i put it back together again,good luck with it.Dodge Ram heater problems?
I am sure you should change the thermostat.
May have a problem in your heater/ac unit(big black box behind the dash). If the mode or blend(cold to hot) cable or actuator(vacuum) is not right, all of these things could occur. The whole unit gets manifold vacuum through the firewall and it uses a one-way check valve(very small). All these things need a vacuum pump to check em. It is only about thirty bucks and very useful for other things. Also I think a foreign object(animal even) or something is caught up in the unit. If you remove the whole dash and /or lift it up, the whole box comes out. It fastens on the top so try first fixing it in the truck, remove the blower motor(if possible), do the thermostat, and take out the blower motor cage and see what you got. Some systems are electrically operated and may require a computer to repair(BCM). You can reset all of the motors and use a scanner to test that type.
If you know how to fix any of these problem that would be greatly appreciatedDodge Ram heater problems?
you need to pull the heater box out and clean it and check the vent doors real good on it, chances are one isn't opening up all the way and the thermostat may be causing some of the problems with it also, and the low heat problem can also be caused by a clogged heater core,the noise could be the heater motor going bad also,if i had that one i would pull th box out and go through it real good and make sure everything was working right before i put it back together again,good luck with it.Dodge Ram heater problems?
I am sure you should change the thermostat.
May have a problem in your heater/ac unit(big black box behind the dash). If the mode or blend(cold to hot) cable or actuator(vacuum) is not right, all of these things could occur. The whole unit gets manifold vacuum through the firewall and it uses a one-way check valve(very small). All these things need a vacuum pump to check em. It is only about thirty bucks and very useful for other things. Also I think a foreign object(animal even) or something is caught up in the unit. If you remove the whole dash and /or lift it up, the whole box comes out. It fastens on the top so try first fixing it in the truck, remove the blower motor(if possible), do the thermostat, and take out the blower motor cage and see what you got. Some systems are electrically operated and may require a computer to repair(BCM). You can reset all of the motors and use a scanner to test that type.
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